Ca phe sua da (Vietnamese style iced coffee)
· 2 to 4 tablespoons finely ground dark roast coffee (preferably with
chicory)
· 2 to 4 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk (not evaporated milk!)
· Boiling water
· Vietnamese coffee press [see notes]
· Ice cubes
Place ground coffee in Vietnamese coffee press and screw lid down on
the grounds. Put the sweetened condensed milk in the bottom of a
coffee cup and set the coffee maker on the rim. Pour near boiling
water over the screw lid of the press; adjust the tension on the screw
lid just till bubbles appear through the water, and the coffee drips
slowly out the bottom of the press.
When all water has dripped through, stir the milk and coffee together.
You can drink it like this, just warm, as ca phe sua nong, or over
ice, as ca phe sua da. To serve it that way, pour the milk-coffee
mixture over ice, stir, and drink as slowly as you can manage.
Notes:
A Vietnamese coffee press looks like a stainless steel top hat.
There's a "brim" that rests on the coffee cup; in the middle
of that is a cylinder with tiny perforations in the bottom. Above that
rises a threaded rod, to which you screw the top of the press, which
is a disc with similar tiny perforations. Water trickles through
these, extracts flavor from the coffee, and then trickles through the
bottom perforations. It is excruciatingly slow. Loosening the top disc
speeds the process, but also weakens the resulting coffee and adds
sediment to the brew.
If you can't find a Vietnamese coffee press, regular-strength espresso
is an adequate substitute, particularly if made with French-roast
beans or with a dark coffee with chicory. I've seen the commonly
available Medaglia d'Oro brand coffee cans in Vietnamese restaurants,
and it works, though you'll lose some of the subtle bitterness that
the chicory offers. Luzianne brand coffee comes with chicory and is
usable in Vietnamese coffee, though at home I generally get French
roast from my normal coffee provider.
Vietnamese coffee should taste more or less like melted Haagen-Dazs
coffee ice cream, while Thai iced coffee has a more fragrant and
lighter flavor from the cardamom and half-and-half rather than the
condensed milk. Both are exquisite, and not difficult to make once
you've got the equipment.
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